check out this photo of Jose Angel surfing Pipeline back in the early 1970’s. i was a little boy sitting on the beach back then not knowing how legendary my Step-Father would be. till this day, i still hear stories of his bravery. and when i think back of the things i learned from him, it’s very precious to me. just by watching him those years, i learned how to surf, how to dive, and how to not be afraid. he went missing during a dive and his body was never found. i was too young to understand the scope of what happened. but since then, i always thought that every surfer or watermen will eventually return to the sea. that’s our happy place and there’s nowhere else we would rather be…
