good evening. ok, who the heck told everybody that there was a south swell? shit, i pulled up to bowls this morning and i swear there were like a hundred people spread out from rockpiles to bowls. longboarders, shortboarders, stand up paddleboarders, bodyboarders, and what seemed like half the island out there. the waves were 3′ and the water and wind was freezing. i had my 2mm wetsuit on and i still was cold. surfed for a couple of hours and ate some dimsum for lunch. the hot chinese tea warmed me up. and the fried noodles put me to sleep this afternoon. 3 days of solid surf sessions. tomorrow is sunday and my first day off of this year. i’m going to enjoy it…
the south shore is usually flat in the winter season months. but not today. solid sets making everybody happy. the good news is that this swell is going to be here for 4 days. save gas, surf town….
every year when we have a new years party at my house, the bingo comes out. and that’s the time everybody sits down and gets serious….
serious because there are so many prizes at stake….
my mom has a kids game at her house. you have to put these little shapes in the right place before the timer goes off and pops. it’s made for ages 5-12 but even i can’t do it. in fact, only 1 out of 12 did it. i better practice for next year….
and last, i went to do some free diving training the other day. jumped off this famous fishing cliff with just my mask, no fins. then swam down to the bottom a few times and just waited down there. while i was down there, i saw fishing lead everywhere. this is only half of what i got and there was still a lot more. if i looked around a little more, i would have about a $100 dollars in lead. maybe next time. train and make money at the same time? good idea….
**and last, if your planning to come to hawaii anytime soon. pack a wetsuit. a long sleeve top is the best. the water has been freakin cold, and so has the wind. if this were japan, i’d be wearing a full suit…. [:???:][:???:]
