Rising Sun

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we started off this camping car surf trip 4 days ago.  so exciting!!!  Toda-san driving us for hours and hours up for the coast looking for waves.  i’m usually in the back sleeping the the comfortable bed.  haha.  

every man has a dream.  so when my friends dream comes true, mine does too.  Toda-san bought this amazing camping car which was his long time dream of his.  and since it was a dream for me to explore Japan in a campaign car, my dream came true too. haha. congratulations Toda-san!!!   

driving around looking for waves is super fun.  i haven’t done a surf trip like this in a long time so every sunrise and sunset is amazing.  Japan is the “land of the rising sun.”  

i love Japan surf culture.  lots of surfers in the morning saying “good morning” to each other, respecting each other, and sharing waves with each other.  it’s so cool.  

Azumi-san, Toda-san, Takami-san, and Matsu checking out the waves in Sendai. 

we don’t have any beach breaks like this in Hawaii.  so surfing these waves is very challenging for me.  i’m amazed how good the Japanese connect to waves like this.  everybody was ripping!  i was lost at sea.   haha.   thank you boys for sharing your knowledge and waves with me!  

after a surf, we usually hang out in the parking lot.  then we decide where to eat lunch.  it’s like a family style surf culture here.  all smiles…

this trip i’m taking it slow.  not too much time on my computer and more time with my friends.  just being present and enjoying every minute and every breath.  simple life…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide