30 years of doing this and it only gets better. as we grow older, we get wiser. we understand that nature provides what’s in front of us and we just make the best of it. so long we have each other, everything will always be ok.
Toda-san was the surfboard repair man. he was such a lifesaver!
this place reminded me of Jurassic Park in Hawaii but much more wilder. the waves are just as good but it’s much deeper in nature. these mountains have deer, snakes, and even bears. i feel much safer in the ocean with the sharks. 
there were like 8 of us driving around and searching for the perfect wave. and when we found it, we set up camp and happily rode it. 
fall is here in Japan and the leaves are starting to change color. there was this tree in Naomi-san’s yard that i watched the colors get brighter by the day. 
and the tomatoes getting riper by the day too. i tried one and it was the sweetest thing ever!
i’ve only been away from Hawaii for 8 days but it feels like a month. so many great experiences and meeting so many great people. 32 years ago i fell in love with Japan and that love has only gotten deeper and stronger. i feel more Japanese then i ever have…
