every 3 years or so, i go down big time. going down meaning my body just
can’t take any more. the past 3 days, i was down big time. never left my
house, not motivated to do anything, body aches, and pretty much feeling
shitty. i don’t fight it because i know it just takes time to heal, i
just go with the flow. stick in dvds, watch a lot of tv, and work on my
computer. today is day 4 and i’m feeling 90% but just weak from not
eating enough. the good part of it is that this won’t happen for another
3 years. and the best part of it is that the waves and weather were
terrible. i didn’t miss a thing. i’m going to drive to the ocean this
afternoon when it gets warmer, jump in the water for a swim, and i know
that i’ll be back to normal. then watch out because you don’t want to
see me fully recharged!! haha.
8′ north/west swell coming tomorrow thursday. lighter winds, and sunnier
skies. the van’s world cup at sunset should finish up on thursday and
friday. the billabong pipe masters is next and guess what? a huge storm
is forming near hokkaido next week. that means HUGE surf for the week
after. should be a good start for the pipe masters! stay tuned!
oh, and you south shore surfers. two small south swells heading our way
too. endless summer continues!
