Barefoot and Smiling

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back in the day, i was shooting along the side of Kamio on a very clear day at Off The Wall.  pretty dam beautiful…

back in the day, Seth Moniz was a little kid from town.  now he’s a World Surf League professional surfer.  his dream sure came true…

traveling around on a boat is the best way to see the real Indonesian lifestyle.  we would pull into small villages and experience the “slow life.”  it really makes you realize how things are too fast in the city life.  

instead of playing video games or on their iPhones, these kids play in the real Disneyland, the Mother Ocean.  i would watch these kids all day and think to myself “wow, these kids are the happiest kids in the world!”  

and these kids can catch fish, clean fish, cook fish, and even sell fish.  this little girl was walking around barefoot with a smile trying to sell the days fresh catch.  

speaking of fresh catch, i just ate a bowl of fresh shirasu over rice for dinner!  thank you Kimura-san and Yamari for making my stomach so happy!  sometimes i can’t believe i can eat this kind of stuff in Hawaii!  gochisousama deshita!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide