when i go on surf trips, there would be a lot of flat days, a lot of average days, and a lot of good days. BUT when everything aligns, there is “The Day!” a very special day of the best surf experience ever. don’t get me wrong because it doesn’t happen on every swell or surf trip. it’s a very rare occasion and when “The Day” happens, you will never forget it.
so far, “The Day” of 2022 happened this summer. it was the biggest swell i ever seen in my lifetime on the South shore. Ala Moana Bowls was so big that it turned into a totally different surf spot. it was huge, it was strong, and it was dangerous. some of the faces reached 25′ so locals called it 12′ Hawaiian scale. look carefully and you will see a boat in the middle of those buoys. yes, that’s a channel and it’s so deep that the waves aren’t supposed to break there. BUT, this day, there was no channel. paddling over these waves felt like paddling over mountains. and when you look closer at this photo, you will see 2 dots on the outside going over that big wave. those 2 dots were my female students. i was so proud of them for taking the challenge that day. or should i say “The Day!” i’m pretty sure they will never forget that for the rest of their lives. good job girls!
