I woke up this morning and felt like surfing. So i grabbed my brand new 6’1 and went surfing. I had this one custom made for knee high days like today. From my first wave, it worked just the way I wanted it to. Thank you Trinx!
I just bought some new tires for the truck. Rubber is so expensive now!!!
Check out this old photo of Keoni Yan from Tahiti, and Seth and Joshua Moniz from Hawaii. Pacific Island boys!
The first time I went to Samoa, this local guy grabbed this pig, jumped into the water, drowned it, and that was our dinner. I was a little traumatized.
There is a secret spot in Japan that not too many surfers actually surf. I think this is why? I use to love these kind of challenges.
