It was very windy this morning so not the best for surfing. But it’s the best for flying. There are many swells close together so if you can catch one, it could equal 10. I had one of the best foil sessions in a very long time!
Leaving early is very peaceful. Nobody on the roads and nobody on the ocean.
Full moon this morning made it even more peaceful.
And the sunrises are incredible! Everyday is different so you just have to wait and see.
If somebody told me 5 years ago that you could surf down the back of a wave, I would have thought he was joking. Now surfing down the back of the wave is just as fun as the front of the wave. It feels surreal…
