When a super typhoon hits Japan, the ocean gets violent. So violent that there could be 30′ faces, strong currents, and lots of white water. Usually nobody surfs on days like this but these were the days I longed for. I use to love the challenge. But now when I look back, I think I paddled out at times when I shouldn’t have. Imagine getting lost somewhere in all that white water? There are no lifeguards and nobody will come to save you. If you break your board or leash, bad things could happen? I rode a 7’6 that day and look how small me and the board look compared to all the ocean. Those are the days I wouldn’t take out my students for Boot Camp Haha.
Kochi, Shikoku. Photo by Matsu
