West Cliffs

101

I drove down the look at the ocean today and it was pretty cool.  Diamond Head looked like a totally different spot.  The waves and winds were coming in from the West.  It actually looked surfable and if I had my board in my car, I would have surfed for sure.  Maybe tomorrow.

Only a few days out of the year, the winds will blow from the West.  And when it does, spots that usually don’t break start to break.  I saw a few good waves for the foil.  Anyway, today was the first real day of winter weather.  Lot’s more storms on the way…

My friend was on the Hawaiian Airlines flight that ran into turbulence.  A total of 36 people got hurt.  I saw people bleeding from the head and face on the video my friend sent.  He said it was crazy!  I always put my seat belt on from the take off to the landing on every flight.  Even when I sleep, my seatbelt is on.  I don’t want to wake up on the ceiling.

I’ve been testing a few more Tokoro’s.  The cool thing is they all work!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide