I woke up this morning and felt like a challenge. So I drive up to the North shore thinking it was 4-6′ but when I heard the ocean roaring, it was way bigger than that. In the dark, I saw some solid 8′ sets at Pipeline and some 10′ sets at Off The Wall.
To be honest, I haven’t surfed waves like this in a while so I was wondering if I would even make a drop. It was big and there was a lot of energy. On top of that, I’ve been foiling the last week so I thought my timing might be off. 
BUT, I teach my students “you should be mentally and physically ready for anything at any given day.” So no excuses for me.
OMG, trying to keep calm when my adrenaline so high was hard to do. This was my first wave and right when I stood up, everything felt right. The crowd was thin early in the morning but when the sun came up, there were about a 100 hungry surfers. Angry ones too. Haha. I surfed for over 2 hours and caught 5 waves. Not bad for the oldest guy out. Haha.
These are the kind of days I’m just grateful for not getting hurt. And these are the kind of days that make we appreciate surfing and Mother Nature.
The drive back home was amazing. Singing Christmas songs and smiling all the way…
