It’s pretty fascinating how surfing evolved. When I use to surf Backdoor 30 years ago, I use to ride a 7’0. It was very long and hard to turn. Now I’m riding a 6’6 which is faster and more maneuverable. So after coming out of the barrel, I can now do a proper turn. And with that speed, it feels so good! Hope the drone got the shot. Haha.
We love coconuts so when there is an opportunity to get one, we will risk anything to get one. Yes it’s dangerous, but when you’re drinking the sweet coconut water inside, it’s all worth it.
Perfect size.
Tony is very good at opening coconuts with his razor sharp machete. Just don’t go close to him when he’s swinging that thing. Haha.