Every first day of the year I make sure I’m in the ocean before first light. That’s always been my ritual because I feel like that’s the only place I want to be in for the rest of the year. Year after year.
So starting off like this on January 1st pretty much explains how my year will be, which is watching every single sunrise from the sea.
This was my first wave of 2023. It could be a 10′ barrel or a knee high glassy wave. I’m just grateful to be a surfer. 
Hiro-san got to experience my yearly ritual and he seemed to love it. Riding your first wave of the year into a sunrise like this is pure joy. 
Another good day on the surfboard. 
On the way in we saw a turtle right under us in the shallow water. 
Then she popped her head up right next to Hiro-san. That means good luck is on the way. 
Then went back this afternoon with my A+ student with his new board. I was super impressed with his improvements. He’s a living example of how a magic board could change your life…
Then the day ended paddling in this afternoon after 2 wonderful sessions with 2 amazing surfers. So far, this years has been perfect!
