Ever since I got my first barrel at 11 years old, I’ve been searching and searching for more. It doesn’t matter if it’s on a wave or under a tree, I’ll always pull in! 
I was watching Darren looking for a barrel too. 
Yesterday afternoon was FUN! Nice swells and lots of smiles. 
In the past 5 years on New Years Day, I’ve been in the Emergency Room twice from surfing accidents. This year was almost my third time. Whew, this one almost hit me in the eye…
