After our morning session, we rested. Then as I was checking the waves in the afternoon, I had a gut feeling that my secret spot would be good. Every indicator was telling me it was good but the only way to find out was to go. It’s a gamble, but we tried our luck. 
As I was paddling out, I watched 15 perfect waves like this break right in front of me. I started getting excited and paddled faster and faster. I was so excited that I had a hard time breathing. I felt we were on some kind of surf trip in another country because NOBODY was out!!! The waves were barreling left and right and we took turns riding and riding. I thought it was a dream…
Thank goodness I took out a high performance shortboard because the waves were high performance. I did my best personal turns of the year and I also got my first barrel of the year. I’m hoping tomorrow will be the same and if it is, that’s where you’ll find me. Or maybe won’t find me. I’m good at keeping secrets…
