Yesterday morning was amazing! We drove to the East side to watch the sunrise while getting barreled. First the sunrise. 
Then the barrels. The waves were super perfect again and nobody was out! My student couldn’t believe we surfed 3 sessions and nobody was out. I told him “If you ever tell anyone about this spot, I will never take you surfing and I will never talk to you again.” He was laughing but I was serious. I really felt like I was on a surf trip for the past 3 days. It was so peaceful and relaxing to ride any wave you chose. 
If you’re looking for the barrel, you better expect very shallow water. When I sat on my board in the inside, my feet were scraping the reef. 
This man is a brand new surfer! Better surfing, good style, and a magic board that changed his life…
We stayed out yesterday until the sun burnt our faces. It was so hard to go in knowing the conditions were this perfect. 
Then guess what? We went again this morning!!!! Surfing on the East side of the island is a very far drive and a huge gamble. BUT, it’s worth it when the waves are good, the conditions are epic, and the sunrise is right in front of your face! Maybe tomorrow again? I hope so.
Now I’m home experimenting with a new recipe for shoyu chicken. My mouth is watering just looking at it marinate.
By the way, the Eddie Aikau WON’T go tomorrow. The swell is a little late and the winds will be bad. Bummer…
