Ala Moana side was flat today so I went to check out Diamond Head. The sets were chest high and the conditions were absolutely perfect!
When I see waves lining up like this, my foil instincts come out. I count the lines and imagine me riding all those waves in one ride. So I took out my foil and that’s what I did. It felt so good to fly again!
Wow, want to thank the boys for making Diamond Head look so beautiful. I stepped on dog shit on the way down but I was still happy!
All I needed was 2 of these and it took me only 20 minutes to go home totally satisfied.
As I was leaving, I could see all the surfers paddling out. Diamond Head was the best spot in town for sure.
Then I took Mateus to the park again to play soccer. He kicked a ball so hard at me that I almost broke my finger. Mateus said “Uncle, you’re not supposed to use your hands.” Opps.