Clean Diamond Head Cliffs

101

Ala Moana side was flat today so I went to check out Diamond Head.  The sets were chest high and the conditions were absolutely perfect!  

When I see waves lining up like this, my foil instincts come out.  I count the lines and imagine me riding all those waves in one ride.  So I took out my foil and that’s what I did.  It felt so good to fly again! 

Wow, want to thank the boys for making Diamond Head look so beautiful.  I stepped on dog shit on the way down but I was still happy!  

All I needed was 2 of these and it took me only 20 minutes to go home totally satisfied.  

As I was leaving, I could see all the surfers paddling out.  Diamond Head was the best spot in town for sure.

Then I took Mateus to the park again to play soccer.  He kicked a ball so hard at me that I almost broke my finger.  Mateus said “Uncle, you’re not supposed to use your hands.”  Opps.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide