I drove out early this morning. Checked everywhere.
Backdoor- Not good enough to risk getting hurt.
Secret spot- Weird and bumpy.
Haleiwa- Clean but gonna get crowded fast.
So I drove over to Mokuleia. I haven’t surfed this spot in 20 years so I was kind of excited for something different. Different waves, different locals, and different view. The local boys said today’s conditions were epic!
Everybody was asking me if I still foil. I told them when there are waves, I surf. And when there aren’t waves, I foil. That’s my new life. The turns feel like I’m so connected to the ocean. Look at this long right! You could do 5 turns and get barreled at the end.
And the barrels are what I missed the most. This morning I got barreled so I was happy for the rest of the day.
It felt like I was on a trip somewhere in Indonesia. I will definitely surf there more often. Thanks boys for sharing the waves and the great vibes.
-Well, as of now, the buoy came up so it looks like the Eddie Aikau is ON tomorrow! Going to sleep and head out to Waimea Bay in the dark! Go Joshua Moniz!
