Historic Day: Eddie Aikau 2023

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I woke up at midnight last night to check the buoy.  If it was over 20′, I was going to go out to watch the contest.  Well, the buoy was 27′!  OMG, that meant by the morning Waimea Bay will be at least 25′ or 50′ faces. Jumped in the car, rode the ebike, and arrived in the dark.  I had to park by Haleiwa because that’s how far down from Waimea Bay people were parking.  When I arrived, the waves were solid 25′ and scary looking.  Today turned out to be the biggest and best Waimea Bay ever.  Mark this one in the history books!

I took my camera so I’ll share more photos later.  I’m just too tired now to do anything.  I stayed all day long so the hungriness and sunburnt face is overwhelming.  I’m grouchy and red hot.  So for now, goodnight.  

Oh, and you should have seen the rescues.  People getting swept into the river, lost bags, wet cameras, and even a little dog was swept into the sea.  The ocean was as ferocious as it gets.  Once again, goodnight for now…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide