Once again, a beautiful sunrise on the East side…
After watching giant waves with 50,000 people all day yesterday, I needed some peace. I sat on the beach early this morning watching the sunrise. It was very peaceful.
Then I saw started to see some waves breaking way on the outside. I grabbed my foil, took off on a knee high wave 10′ off the white sandy beach, pumped all the way out to the outside, and foiled a wave all the way back to the beach. Then I was done for the day. My heartbeat was pumping, my legs were burning, and I was completely satisfied. All of that took less than 4 minutes. Then I sat back on the beach and continued to watch the sunrise…
A couple longboards came out after and looked like they were having fun. All that hype yesterday and so much peace today. Balance is everything…
