Started the day off with an early morning session at Ala Moana. The waves were small but very clean. Moon shining so bright.
If you have the right board, small waves are super fun. This girl got really good in the past 2 sessions. Right board and right mind.
When it’s small, this is the right board and right mind for me.
Round 2 we went to look at Diamond Head. An empty lineup that was saying to us “please come out and ride me!”
Once we got to the bottom of the mountain, everything seemed a lot calmer. A lot more beautiful too.
This girl caught the best wave of her life today. So stoked to see the joy of surfing!
I tried to get barreled on one. Us surfers call this a “head dip.”
Well, Pipeline Pro guaranteed on tomorrow! Go #7 Seth Moniz!