The waves were windy and wild so instead of simply surfing, I made the girls surf contest heats against each other. Twenty minutes, no priority, and longest ride wins. For both of them, this was their first time surfing a heat so I had no idea how they would go along with it.
Right when it started, they were paddling around, hassling each other, searching for waves, and being very aggressive. I was on the beach taking video and laughing so hard. It was hilarious! They did 2 heats and when they came in, they were both exhausted. I told them to rest because tomorrow will be Finals Day!
Then we passed by Diamond Head in the afternoon and nobody was out! The winds were 50mph, the current was super strong, and the conditions were similar to a hurricane.
But if you want to become a better surfer, these are the days you will learn the most. And when you get a good wave, it’s a lot more rewarding. This girl caught the best wave in her life today. Even I had a hard time trying to get a decent wave but she got 3. Stoked!
One girl and the sea…
