This morning we gambled and went to search for a wave where we can hold the finals. Even though the wind was 50mph, this spot is protected so it was very calm and clean. Lots of waves and perfect for a contest. The Hawaii Surf League starts now!
I sat on the beach for 3 hours watching, coaching, and taking videos of the girls. It was so funny that I was laughing the whole time. This is how my coach Ben Aipa use to train me. It made me hungry, it made me aggressive, it made me paddle faster, surf faster, and most important, it made me smarter.
I was almost going to have the finals day at Sandy Beach but it was way too wild. The waves were so big and the current was so strong. You hardly see it like this. You could die out there today so lucky we went to another spot. And I also didn’t want my lifeguard friends to come and scold me. Haha.
