I was planning to surf Bowls this morning but when I woke up, I felt the warm South/East winds so plans changed. Rather than dark junky onshore Bowls, we went to sunny and perfect Haleiwa. My student paddled out and had this spot all to herself! 
If this were Japan, there would be a 100 surfers out. But this is Hawaii so sometimes you can still be very lucky.
This girl rode her brand new 6’5 Trinx and from the very first wave, she loved it.
She must have caught 30 waves this morning. Came in smiling ear to ear telling me to call Trinx and tell him thank you for the Magic Board. 
Then Matchi paddled out and showed us the proper way to ride these small waves. He was ripping with style! 
Just to hang out and see all my friends from Japan is so special. These guys come to Hawaii every single year and bring super positive energy. All good surfers with lots of experience. Nice to see TEAM BOB from Shikoku!!! 
After our morning session, I asked my student “do you want to surf calm Laniakea with 100 other guys? or do you want to go back to town and surf wild Diamond Head with just a few guys?” She chose the WILD!
