going out to the north shore was nice yesterday. to see the powerful waves, to surf 2 sessions, and to see my north shore friends. surfed pretty dam good velzyland in the morning with nao-chan, the pretty dam dam good haleiwa after lunch. 2 solid sessions and i’m getting back into the groove.
the first time i seen this big gorilla paddle out to backdoor was about 10 years ago. back then, this kauai boy was the most feared surfer in the lineup. but after getting to know him throughout the years, kai garcia is one of the nicest people you will ever meet. just don’t get him mad and you’ll be ok. haha. good to see this big black belt jujitsu monster in the lineup. nobody does stupid things in the water when he’s out.
the gallery on the beach is fun to look at. people from all over the world trying to get a photo of a big wave. and when you turn the camera on them, you get the stink eye. look at the lady with the flower in her hair giving me the stink eye. haha.
it sucks to ride in back of somebody, especially if they are in the tube your supposed to be in. i like riding in front. haha.
i’d say 1000+ broken surfboards every winter season? here is just one of the many boards that pipe will claim.
by the way, heard that the Pipe Masters are going to GO on the first 3 days of the waiting period and finish up too. yeah, the first time in history the pipe masters will finish in the first 3 days. i’m happy because after it’s done, everybody goes home. and it’s local time!
