Tacoma Blue

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Pretty cool how beautiful the mornings have been even though it’s been super windy.  Next week the winds are supposed to be calm so expect epic and warm conditions starting next Sunday.  

Only a surfer knows the feeling.

Last time we went to Waimea Bay, it was rough and we went there to surf it.  From the car all the way to the lineup, my student didn’t say a word.  It was probably the most nervous she’s ever been.  So going back there on a flat day, you can really appreciate the “mana” or power.  It’s so calm and so peaceful.  This day, she was talking a lot.  Haha.  

I sat on the beach for so long that I started talking to the birds.  That’s how I knew I was going crazy.  

Went to pick up a new board from Trinx.  This one was supposed to match the paint of Tacoma Gray.  The color actually came out better!  

I was trying to lineup the photographer and myself with the sun to make it look like I was hugging the sun.  I failed on that one.  

My two Grandnephews are the cutest kids in the world…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide