Epic Jurassic Park!

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OMG, I was so excited to go to Jurassic’s this morning that I forgot to pick up my student.  I was on the freeway heading to the East side when I thought something was wrong.  Haha.  OMG, I did a U-Turn and picked her up!

We arrived and it was as beautiful as it gets.  Sunny, not too windy, head high surf, and some of the longest rides in the world.

On my very first wave, I broke my foil.  So I had to paddle all the way back in, grab a short board, and paddle all the way back out.  BUT, the waves were so good that my shortboard was working great!

Imagine catching waves from way out there and riding it to the beach.  It was the best day ever at Jurassic’s!

Then we came back to town for Round 2.  Looked at Diamond Head and saw the strong East swell direction.  Umm, I know the perfect spot!

Jumped on Mayuki and she took us there.

I put on another mast and tried again.  This morning was foiling defeat for me and I didn’t want to end the day like that.

After my first wave, I was healed.  Back to foiling paradise!

Then I was cheering on the girls into riding the biggest waves out there.  Why not since we were the only surfers out.

Got this beautiful foil drone shot.  In the warm water on a sunny day with two girls who love to surf.  It was another classic day in paradise…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide