every time i travel around the world, everybody asks me “how big are the waves?” that’s a tricky question because there is the hawaiian scale, or the california scale. hawaiian scale is determined by the height of the back of the wave. california scale is determined by the front of the wave.
take yesterday for example. the news stations were calling the waves from the front, 12-15′. the hawaiian surf report was calling it 6-8′. i shot this photo to show you how big it gets out there. how big do you think this wave is? just remember, each of those surfboards going up the wave are 7′ long. now figure it out. for me, i’d say this has a 25′ face and a 10′ back. i’m looking forward to surfing the north shore this season, but i’m not looking forward to these waves breaking on my head on 3′ deep water. when you think about it, surfers are pretty dam crazy! haha.
