Valley of the Temples

168

The winds have been super strong recently but there is one special surf spot that loves strong winds.  We surfed there twice this week and it was really good.  You need a boat to get there so we weren’t expecting anyone else to show up.  Another epic shot from the foil.   

Surfing the other day with the dentists was fun.  They were super energetic and super stoked to surf for the first time.  

This year was the first time in a very long time I got to hang out with Matchi so much.  Matchi was one of the first surfers I met in Japan so he knows all the crazy stories about me.  Even the ones I forgot.  Haha.  

Thank you Matchi for the beautiful photos.  Hope to see you in the barrel in Shikoku!  

Ham hock is pork knuckles.  So I just at pork knuckles black eye peas soup.  Pretty dam good!

There is something about this view that makes me so at ease.  Every time I come here, I feel like I entered heaven…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide