Wild Westerly Winds

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Wow, today was so wild!  It started off early this morning when Kao-chan and I paddled out to Bowls.  It was only us in the whole ocean enjoying this beautiful storm.  It was windy, rainy, and wild!  

I looked over to Rockpiles and I saw a couple nice rights so we paddled over and caught those couple of nice rights.  This girl has a really good bottom turn!

Then it cleared up, the wind stopped, and it was smooth.  And still nobody out all morning!   It’s hard to believe there were a hundred surfers out there yesterday and not one today.  

Then went to Sandy Beach in the evening.  It was pretty wild out there too.  Only my friend since elementary school out and us.  I just love days like this because these are the days you must flow with what the ocean provides. 

365 days out of the year, Sandy Beach is always crystal clear.  

It was this girls first Sandy Beach experience and definitely not her last.  The power and the beauty of that spot is worth coming back for more.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide