Epic Hawaii

102

We started the day off really early again.  It was pretty cold due to the North wind but it warmed up really fast. 

The girls had a day to remember.  Not only did they learn about the waves, they learned how to stick together when confronted.  We are a team and two is always greater than one.  

Surfing into the sunrise is blinding so you almost have to go by feel.  You can actually close your eyes and do it.  In fact, that’s what I’m going to make the girls do tomorrow.  Surf with their eyes closed.  

This girl got the set of the day!  I saw it building from the outside and was yelling “GO!!!”  The perfect takeoff!  

Round 2 was to fix Mayuki and take her out to scrub her bottom.  That has to be the most grueling exercise.  Try holding your breath and scrub hard while trying to relax so you can hold your breath.  It’s not easy.  And after that, I’m usually really exhausted. 

But never too exhausted when one of the girls is waiting for you all day for Round 2.  I know that feeling so can’t say no to that.  

It stayed glassy and clean all day long.  Perfect waves from sunrise to sunset. 

After that month of bad weather, this is the treat for the ones who were patient.  Epic Hawaii continues!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide