There is this one local surfer out at Diamond Head that surfs that wave the best. He has incredible flow to make his boards fly over flat sections effortlessly. He surfs that wave better than anyone else. On the good days and on the junky days, he’s still ripping. It really inspires me to do better out there. 
This past month has been very dangerous for me. Boards flying everywhere, beginners running me over, and just chaos. I’m always on full alert but it’s still scary like this when guys throw their board right in front of you at the last minute. 
And the times I take off behind my student and he or she cuts back into me. I have to dive off my board and almost hit my face on the reef. 
Another 11′ rock hard surfboard coming right to my face. If I didn’t take photos, my life would be a lot easier. But at the same time, the risk is what makes me want to do it. 
Time to explore. Time to relax. Time to travel. I’m going to hunt for “Cherry Blossoms!”
Then as soon as the waves go flat, the winds calm down, and the weather is nice, I’m going to fly back and get on Mayuki and head to my favorite island in the world.
