Surf to Reborn

102

I’ve been waiting for this!  The sakura is blossoming everywhere.  Just in a day, the all the trees on the mountains are full bloom!  The past 2 days, I drove over 9 hours in and out of the mountains.  Ever corner I was in awe of the beauty.  And the cool thing is hardly anyone is around.  This is the most beautiful season I’ve ever experienced.    

Walking along temples and enjoying the rich culture of Japan.  Taking it slow step by step and breath by breath.  I’m so happy that my life has finally slowed down so much that I can appreciate things a lot more.  

I’m in the wild mountains.  And in the wild mountains are wild animals.   I was walking up a path and could feel something looking at me.  I look up and there were these cute deer.   I don’t think I can eat deer anymore.  

Meanwhile back home in Hawaii, I got a text at 1am in the morning.  Bright lightning, thunder, hail, and the craziest weather.  

Overlooking Ala Moana, she said the lighting bolts were lighting up the sky.  I told her to sit back and enjoy the beautiful show!  

I wasn’t expecting to surf on this trip.  But after 11 days of being out of the ocean, I couldn’t resist.  Thank you Sakabe-san for encouraging me to surf.  If it wasn’t for you, I would have never paddled out.  You’re a super kind local and I want to thank you for sharing some waves with me.  I feel reborn!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide