Brown Water Again….

195

good evening. the waves didn’t get as big as they expected but it was big enough for half the tourist on the island. gosh, the north shore was packed with cars today. traffic, people, and frustration. it seems that every year more and more tourists head out to the country. i don’t think it’s anything to do with a surfing boom. i truly feel that it’s because of the new surfing scale. if i were a tourist and heard the waves were going to be 40′, i’d check it out too. and the turtles at laniakea ain’t helping one bit. the other day, a tourist stopped and asked me where the turtles are. i pointed them to foodland. haha. just joking. but after spending a full day out here on the north shore, i don’t think i could live here. surf/dive/have fun, then go back to town. yeah, you can call me a townie if you want. but i’m ok with that…. well, the beers are starting to flow. gotta go enjoy…

passing by laniakea for the past 45 days and seeing how dirty the water is pretty depressing. hayato and tokura-san couldn’t believe how brown and dirty it was. for me, i’m getting use to it. i’m just worried about all those poor fish….

this years dove house is stashed away in a quite place right against the mountain. it’s pretty peaceful….

but once night comes and the beers come out, it won’t be so peaceful. day 1 of many many days. stay tuned…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide