Dodgeball

92

They are having the Hawaii State Surfing Championships this week at Bowls.  That means everyone is out practicing early in the morning.  I surfed that contest 35 years ago and remember hating the Uncles that were taking all the good waves in the morning when I was trying to practice.  Well, now I’m that Uncle.  Haha.

I always tell the kids “someday you will be an Uncle too so until then, just let us have fun because we won’t be around for too much longer.”

They were everywhere!  I had to dodge kids riding the wave, and also paddling back out.  It was crazy!

The contest is on until Saturday so be patient kids.  I’ll see you out there tomorrow!  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide