The waves came down from yesterday but it was still nice and big. Although Bowls is a perfect wave, it wasn’t that perfect this morning. Of every 20 waves, one was epic. So you better have chosen the right one. 
I surfed 3 today rounds totaling 6 hours! Right now my face is red, body is hot, dehydrated, and totally sunburnt. But we only have one life so may as well maximize each precious day. Tomorrow will be the same thing.
Hiro-san is back! It’s only been 4 months since we surfed together but everything is different now. He’s healthier, happier, stronger, and a lot more confident. I couldn’t believe how nice and relaxed he was today. So cool!
After 20 waves ridden, I was wondering when he was going to get tired. I tired out before him. Haha.
