I waited at home this morning because I had a feeling later in the day would be better. I watched the sky and felt the breeze and when it felt right, I drove down to Diamond Head. And when I pulled up, this is what I saw. Overhead sets just perfectly peeling from the way outside to the very inside. OMG, this is as good as it gets!
I grabbed my shortest and thinnest board because it was all about high performance surfing today. This was one of the best Diamond Head sessions in a while.
Good to see the locals out enjoying the ride. It was as beautiful as it gets.
Somebody lost their tire?
I surfed a long session and caught a lot of good waves. When I came home, I took a nap with a big smile. I felt like a kid again…
