The waves were super good again! Bigger and better than yesterday. It’s been a weird Summer but the surprise days like today is really appreciated. I took Yu-san for an early morning dawn patrol surf. He caught this nice wave from the peak at Bowls. I was riding behind him thinking to myself “wow, this guy surfs so good!”
Nice turn! You should have seen Yu-san’s smile. He was so stoked!
Tommy riding high.
Troy getting ready for the bottom turn.
Yu-san was smiling from his first wave to his last. And all the way back to his hotel too. And probably all the way back to Japan too. Haha.
I left home at 5am and just got back at 9pm. It was a long day but surfing good waves and taking care of Mayuki is happiness. Goodnight