Surfing is Happiness

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The waves were super good again!  Bigger and better than yesterday.  It’s been a weird Summer but the surprise days like today is really appreciated.  I took Yu-san for an early morning dawn patrol surf.  He caught this nice wave from the peak at Bowls.  I was riding behind him thinking to myself “wow, this guy surfs so good!”

Nice turn!  You should have seen Yu-san’s smile.  He was so stoked!

Tommy riding high.

Troy getting ready for the bottom turn. 

Yu-san was smiling from his first wave to his last.  And all the way back to his hotel too.  And probably all the way back to Japan too.  Haha.  

I left home at 5am and just got back at 9pm.  It was a long day but surfing good waves and taking care of Mayuki is happiness.  Goodnight

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide