The Eye of Mad Scientists

104

Right now there is a Super Typhoon spinning towards the Philippines.  It brings back memories of tracking these typhoons and jumping on a flight to Japan to surf it.  Now that I look back, it seems crazy to chase these catastrophic storms and put yourself right in the line.  We would surf the swells as it arrives, and as it passes by.  In the meantime, we’d be sitting in wooden houses as the winds felt like the roof will blow off.  There were a couple of times we were right in the middle of the eye and it suddenly turned calm, sunny, and very hot.  Then 20 minutes later, you’re holding on for your life again.  We as typhoon chasers were like mad scientists.  Tracking 25 typhoons a year for 20 years, you learn a lot.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide