Get Barreled for Me…

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This is an ideal typhoon course for surf.  Just by looking at this, there will be big and perfect waves in the Philippines, Taiwan, Okinawa, and most of Japan.  If I were to chase this one, I would be waiting for the South/West swells on a tiny island off the West coast of Japan.

And I would be surfing with Matchi right here at this spot getting the barrels of our lives.  Unfortunately I wasn’t able to make this one, but I can assure you Matchi is getting barreled for me.  Thanks for the photos and thanks for thinking of me Matchi!

Although I can’t chase typhoons like before, I’m not in a too bad of a place.  This morning we woke up to unexpected overhead perfect waves.

Malcom’s one of the happiest regulars out there.  Always smiling and always getting good waves.

The waves were so glassy that it felt like we were in Indonesia.  John at Hawaii’s Macaroni’s.

Bigger than yesterday, many more waves than yesterday, and a lot less surfers than yesterday.  I guess that made today “Perfect!”

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide