HT’s: The Surgeons Table

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HT’s/Hollow Trees/Lances Rights are all different names, but is all the same spot.  It’s located in the Mentawai Islands and is probably one of the best right barrels in the world.  On a small day, there will be 50 guys fighting for waves.  Yes, 50 guys all paying thousands of dollars traveling half way around the world.  Sounds crazy right?  BUT when it’s big like this, it’s a different story.  You have to be an advanced surfer willing to take risks.  It’s very powerful, very shallow, and very dangerous.  Pulling into the barrel is easy, making it out over the shallow reef is the hard part.  They call the inside reef the “surgeon’s table” because if you hit it, you will need a surgeon to stitch you up.  And the nearest surgeon is in the city of Padang which is 14 hours away by boat.  This particular day was HUGE!  It was breaking way outside so you’re taking off on 20′ faces, bottom turning, and pulling into the biggest and best barrels you can ever imagine.  1000% commitment. This was one of the most memorable waves of my life.  I rode a 6’8 that  day and it didn’t survive that session.  Thank goodness it was only my board…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide