Another beautiful and very low tide morning. Foilers are complaining but surfers are loving it. 
When you get to a certain level of surfing, you won’t forget it. You might feel a little sluggish and stiff on the first couple waves, but everything comes back pretty quickly. This girl already caught up to where she left off last time. Now it’s time to go up a few more levels! 
Feeling content at 6am. Only a surfer knows the feeling.
Round 2 we went to Diamond Head. Much bigger, much more wild, and much more nature. It was a very beautiful day.
Red is magic. 
I sat up top, took video, commented, and now this girl is going to go home and learn. I talk, I scold, and I hardly praise. That’s the only way to get better. Ben Aipa taught me that.
