I was riding a wave in the morning and saw something swimming under me. It turned out to be a school of Omilu. They kept on riding with me until I looked down too long and fell. Haha. 
The underwater world is pretty magical. I would love to be a fish.
There is a secret spot on the South shore that catches the biggest waves when there is a swell. It’s very powerful and very hard to surf. But when you get a good one, it feels like you’re surfing on the North Shore. 
The wave keeps on going and going. It’s the perfect place to practice cutbacks. Well done…
The world we live in is getting so crazy. A police officer pulled over a car for speeding and when he walked to the drivers window, he got shot. That is terrifying…
