Hero of the Year…

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good sunday morning. junky surf once again on the north shore. clean and perfect in town but small. seen a waist high set at bowls but diamond head must be better. going surfing….

do you know what a hero looks like? look at this man… pilot Chesley Burnett “Sully” Sullenberger, 58 already made hero of the year for 2009. if it wasn’t for him, 155 lives could have been lost and thousands of family members been in shock. but instead, this pilot guided his airplane to a safe landing on the water and saved every single life on board. it’s stories like these that give hope. it’s stories like these that turn lives around. and it’s stories like these that i like seeing in the news…

when ever i see news like this, i always wonder “what if i was on that plane?” it’s kind of freaky because it can happen to anyone. i guess thats why this story has affected me. i know dam well that it could have been me. and still can be me….

getting back to the news, this is the happiest story i’ve seen on american news since obama won the election. and probably the only other happy news since then. i really wish the news could report on more happy things than the negative things. yeah, we all know that our economy is bad but do we have to be reminded every single hour of every single day? how the heck are we supposed to turn things around? so come on, think positive, report good news, and let us do the rest…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide