It was a very beautiful morning. The waves were supposed to be flat so we took all of our free diving gear to explore the East side.
But the waves weren’t flat. It was chest high and good. Always have boards in the car just in case. Only this one lucky girl in the ocean on this beautiful Sunday morning.
I watched from the beach and then paddled out to join this solo session. This place is very hard to surf but this girl figured it out.
Surfing this beautiful location and having the ocean to yourself is fabulous. Smiles all morning long.
I caught my last wave all the way to the beach. It felt like the old “Gotcha Pro” days. I love this place…