Twin Lifesaver

105

Early morning and not expecting anything, but there was a little South swell starting to show.  I caught my best wave in weeks.  So did the girls and once they did, we were satisfied and done for the day.   

After countless hours of Boot Camp, everything is falling into place.  This is a perfect bottom turn.  Calm and cool.  

Bowls was very crowded today.  Everybody is hungry because the waves have been so small for a long time.  Be cool everyone.  

This past boat trip was crazy.  We jumped a big wave in the middle of the channel and the boat went almost vertical.  The gas was pouring out of the breather holes and one battery cable broke.  Boats aren’t supposed to be in a vertical position so it was a test.  Lucky no fire.  I had to check to check if my crew were still on board.  One was holding on for her life and the other was sleeping.  Haha.  Now something else broke in the opposite motor so I’ll be fixing it soon.  Having twin motors on a boat is a lifesaver.  Or shall I say, was a lifesaver…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide