We paddled out super early this morning. It was still dark!
Nakahodo-san surfing his new magic board into the sunrise.
A few of my friends at Bowls asked me where we’ve been. I told them, we’ve been doing Boot Camp at very challenging spots, and now we’re applying what we learned on one of the easiest waves on the island. This is the calmest surf we’ve had in a very long time.
So calm that we can enjoy the rainbows.
Now my students understand why we surf challenging waves. You learn the most on the challenging days so when the good days like this come, we perform.
Calm and cool. This is surfing…
After this session, we went to challenge ourselves again. Bigger, windier, harder, but rewarding.