We’ve been training hard for years now. One thing we practice is to be able to ride big waves. This is how I learned, so this is how I teach. We do it over and over and over and over until it’s perfected. 
This girl is one of the best. If a 10′ wave breaks in front of her, she can turn around, catch it, and ride it all the way to the beach. This is all about making the uncomfortable feel comfortable. 
A couple more shots from behind. This is where we check foot placement, style, and grace. 
And when you have style and grace, any angle will look good. 
I’m looking forward to going back to Japan soon! I hope to be spending more time in the nature again. You just never know what will walk up to you…
