konban wa. woke up early morning to check the waves. was too dark so i came back and checked the winds on my computer. the wind was offshore out here on the north shore but the wind stations in town posted west winds. shit, better get it early. went to the dove house to grab everybody, paddled out to lani’s, only 2 other guys out. surfed for 40min then there came the west winds right on time. then the conditions were bad for the rest of the day. lucky we got up early today…
then back for lunch. or should i say, brunch. maguro chazuke donburi. oishikatta!!!
then it was time for a second lunch. raw shirasu and baby octopus over hot rice. thank you kimura-san and yamari…
back to the secret spot yesterday. the 6 of us left the north shore around 3pm. we drove for 1 hour, parked our car, climbed over a mountain, got bit by thousands of mosquitos, walked for 30 minutes in waist high deep mud, paddled out 20 minutes, then finally arrived at our secret spot. the waves were 4′ and square. yeah, thick barrels. we scored big time… wanna go there? try to find it… haha…
and last, just to let you know that they have been setting up DUI roadblocks on the haleiwa bypass around 9pm at night. you shouldn’t be drinking and driving but i’d just thought i’d let you know… drive safe. and drink safe…
**north winds blowing hard now. big swell tonight but junky winds. maybe a day off tomorrow. have a great evening..
